Savouring Croatia’s Dalmatian coast with Dalmacija Places Hotel
There’s nothing like waking up in a hotel bed. The good people at Dalmacija put me up in a beautiful room on the fourth floor with a plush double bed, tranquil ensuite and its own balcony. That first morning, I took a few moments to appreciate the sound of the tide coming in. My room looked out onto a slightly wind-battered pool area, beyond which the Adriatic rolled on in an endless spool of pale blue. I considered starting the day with a swim. The day was bright and inviting, and I’d heard many a good thing about the pine-shaded beach just a short walk from my room. I hoisted my swimming trunks resolutely, then promptly caved at the thought of having to swim on an empty stomach. Exercise would have to wait; breakfast was calling.
I, like my father and his father before him, have a near-mystical reverence for breakfast. I will never understand people who don’t eat anything until lunchtime; you’re seriously turning down the chance to eat pudding first thing in the morning? I am both besotted with a betrothed to breakfast. It is the purest of meals, perhaps because it has the greatest proximity to the flavourless oblivion of sleep. On a bright Sunday morning, a good plate of scrambled eggs on buttered toast, a tower of pancakes topped with bacon, or a fresh croissant dunked in a cup of strong black coffee can turn this old cynic into an excitable child.
This was the effect of my first breakfast at Dalmacija, which you’ll be pleased it hear is available to PLACES FLEXI guests and runs from 7-11 am. Exiting the panoramic elevator, I made my way through the games room (complete with pin-balling husbands and desperate-looking wives) and began exploring my options: fresh plums and grapes from nearby farms; mountains of granola; sausages and bacon scorched to perfection; oysters and anchovies plucked from the salt-rich sea; eggs of every possible kind; American-style pancakes spiced with a touch of cinnamon; mounds of sourdough rolls; croissants filled with apricot jam (truly best kind of jam), pain au chocolat still warm from the oven; Makarana (a latticed tart flavoured with orange peel, almonds Maraschino liqueur); enough honey to feed an army of pooh bears; enough cheese to bury a small horse; and endless pots of coffee kept warm on their own individual hobs. I sat myself down at a table on the sun-dappled veranda and, for the next hour or so, ate myself into a pastry-induced reverie. Only then did I make my way down to the water’s edge.
During the summer season, Dalmacija welcomes resident DJs to the beach and pool areas, but in my post-breakfast state, I was happy to listen to the relaxed beats emanating from the restaurant below the hotel. Sadly, I didn’t get the chance to eat there, as I was too taken with the food offered up at the main restaurant, where guests will also find a well-stocked bar. After spending my day exploring the coastline beyond the town, I returned and used my FLEXI wristband (pre-loaded with €25 credit each day) to buy a decent Campari soda, which I sipped while resting my weary (and sunburnt) legs before heading out once again to explore the local clubs, the best of which (Club Deep) is housed in a cave. If clubbing isn’t your thing, Makarska also has a beautiful old town speckled with brilliant restaurants. Kap Uja was a particular favourite of mine. If, on the other hand, you’re looking to have a drink with locals, try Betty, a small bar with a good line in ’80s Croatian pop.
That night, I returned to my hotel room and immediately capsized. It had been a near-perfect day, and I intended to end it with the perfect snooze. Sleep came easy, and the next day Makarska shined all the brighter. If you’re looking to explore Dalmatia, there’s no better place to stay than Makarska’s Dalmacija PLACES Hotel You can find out more by visiting Valamar’s website.
