A revolution in the head: the murky world of psychedelic tourism

In January 2023, Oregon became the first US state to legalise the adult use of hallucinogenic mushrooms. Psilocybin is a naturally occurring psychedelic that has shown promise for treating PTSD, chronic depression, end-of-life anxiety and a raft of other mental health conditions. Scientists are still working to establish the therapeutic effects of psilocybin and other psychedelics, but it’s thought that such drugs promote neuroplasticity, meaning that they could be used to rewire patients from the inside out.

A recent study on the use of psychedelics to alleviate alcoholism, for example, found that just two doses of psilocybin, combined with talk therapy, led to a decline in heavy drinking among 83% of participants. By the end of the eight-month trial, nearly half had stopped drinking altogether. A revolution in the head? Maybe.

The public’s perception of psychedelics is changing. It’s no surprise, then, that psychedelic tourism in countries like Costa Rica, Mexico and Jamaica has skyrocketed in recent years. Most tourists opt for psychedelic retreats, places where hallucinogenic substances are taken under the supervision of a shaman. Such experiences have been around since the 1960s but have become even more popular since the Covid-19 pandemic, during which cannabis tourism also saw a boost in popularity. Some of the world’s leading travel magazines have trumpeted the rise of this new industry, but it may be more complicated than it seems.

Indigenous communities have been using psychedelics as ceremonial medicines for millennia. Popular interest in the hallucinogenic brew known as ayahuasca took off in Europe and America in a big way at the start of the 2010s, with high-profile actors claiming that it allowed them to overcome past trauma and move forward. The idea that psychedelics can do what no psychiatrist can has since been embraced by the global wellness industry, which – according to a report by Global Industry Analysts – is expected to be worth $1.2million by 2027.

But there are dangers. Psychedelics have some really beneficial applications, but they should be used with caution. They have been shown to cause psychosis and long-term mental health issues in patients with a predisposition to mental illness. Healthcare providers know all too well that many people turn to psychedelics as a form of self-medication for depression and anxiety. One of the most common criticisms of retreats is that they’re organised in such a way that guests are left to their own devices. A lack of monitoring has, in the past, had horrific consequences. In 2020, for example, a 29-year-old British woman travelled to Peru to participate in an ayahuasca retreat and developed mental health issues. She committed suicide shortly afterwards.

Earlier, in 2015, a Canadian tourist was attacked at a psychedelic retreat in the Amazon by someone under the influence of ayahuasca and ended up stabbing the practitioners to death. Then, three years after that, a shaman and a tourist were killed in a double murder at another retreat nearby. In addition to these incidents, countless sexual assaults have taken place at such resorts.

This isn’t to say that all psychedelic retreats are inherently bad. In environments where trained professionals are present, and guests are properly looked after, amazing things can happen. The issue is that most retreats knowingly blur the distinction between recreational “party” drug use and ceremonial plant-medicine use, with businesses thriving on the notion that they offer an underground cure for long-term mental illness

Few people would trade a traditional ayahuasca trial for tripping in a sterile government facility, it would seem. But this Western desire for authenticity has had some unexpected consequences. In San José del Pacifico, Oaxaca, the so-called “ayahuasca capital of the world,” tourists flock to purchase the psychedelic mushrooms, tea, and honey sold at local markets. While the indigenous community here has welcomed the tourist boom, others aren’t so keen. Increased demand for peyote has led to unsustainable harvesting practices and poaching in Mexico’s San Luis Potosi region, leading to a 100 per cent decline in some areas. Considering peyote takes 15 years to grow, you can see why this might be a problem for communities relying on the plant for ceremonial practices.

While psychedelic tourism has clear benefits, the industry as a whole appears dangerously unregulated. For many, this is part of the appeal, but it doesn’t benefit individuals suffering from long-term mental health conditions, and it’s having a detrimental impact on indigenous communities. As always, education is key. If you’re looking to travel to places like San José del Pacifico, go with an understanding of what your presence there means for locals. You might want to read up about the local community and establish who benefits from the retreat. Is it the community itself or some LA businessman with dreadlocks and a healing crystal in their bathroom? Most importantly, ask yourself what you hope to gain from a psychedelic retreat. Now that Oregon is running therapeutic psilocybin sessions with trained professionals, the answer to that question is more important than ever.

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